I finally went out of my way to grab an Impossible Whopper the other day. I rarely have fast food, but it is a low priced Impossible Burger. With so many restaurants charging over $15 for one, it’s great to find that delicious, savory vegan burger that doesn’t break the bank. It was nice out in the North East that weekend, and I wasn’t the only one enjoying the outdoors. Someone said “Cool helmet!” on my way back. I thanked the guy. It seemed like a genuine compliment. It’s a cool helmet, and I’ve got it loaded up with a variety of stickers, most from my far too frequent skate purchases. I think it looks cool. But I always wonder. Did they actually like my helmet, or was it sarcasm?
Longboarding and street skating have different cultures when it comes to safety gear. When I was younger, I did the latter. Helmets were seen as uncool. Skating street, you rarely fall hard or fast enough to hit your head. Of course, it can be something that happens more often as you start doing stairs and long grinds, but in most street skating, you’re not looking at anything too dangerous. Still, best to probably defy the culture of concussions and just wear a helmet regardless.
Longboarding, or even (or perhaps especially) cruisers, require a helmet. You can easily get over 15MPH in no time. A fall at that speed can get a little unpredictable, and the community knows it. Post a photo without a helmet on Reddit, Disqus, or Instagram, and you’ll have a bunch of helmet suggestions within the hour.
I broke my wrist last summer, but thanks to my brain bucket, I didn’t get a concussion or worse. I mentioned that before, but I thought I should go into the finer points of helmets and other safety gear. You should stay safe too.
Table of Contents
A Note on Measurements
For all of these, you’re going to want to either buy the item in person or do careful measurements at home. Your local skate shop should have a lot of these items, but you can do research online. When my local shop didn’t have slide gloves, I ordered some in the wrong size. Definitely measure twice, buy once. The key is to measure with the joint relaxed. If you don’t have a fabric tape measure, mark up a piece of string or masking tape to figure out the circumference of your elbows, knees, head, wrists, and any other body parts your protecting, then measure the tape with a ruler or tape measure. Also, remember you may be wearing these over jeans in the case of kneepads, so make sure you’re within the range of a size, don’t cut it too close. You’ll want your pads to fit tight, but not so tight that they won’t work with other clothing.
Helmet
This is your most important piece of safety gear. Wear one. If you’re just going out for a short cruise and know you’ll be in traffic or doing tricks, wear a helmet. But what kind should you get? In the age of big box stores and Amazon, it can be hard to tell the difference between a good deal and a cheap head cover little better than a hat. Your brain’s important, don’t cheap out. Expect to spend anywhere between $50 and $100 for a basic helmet and up to $500 for a full face helmet.
It’s your brain. It’s worth it.
Certifications
How can you tell if a helmet is going to protect your head? First, make sure you get one that’s been certified. For your everyday skating, street, casual downhill, or freeride, you’re going to want a dual certification helmet. This means it can take one hard impact and multiple smaller ones. They use a combination of a hard shell, hard foam, and soft padding. To understand why, we have to look at how helmets work.
Basically, helmets absorb impact force. Force has to go somewhere. You head has abruptly stopped moving. We can’t change the rate of the impact. However, we can alter how force is distributed. A helmet absorbs and distributes force over a larger surface than the impact itself. High impact foam can absorb one hit really well, but it breaks in that process. Low impact foam can take as many hits as you can throw at it, but only protects against low force impacts. Hit the road at 30 MPH? Slammed by a car blowing a stop light? That’s a high impact. Fall backwards and hit your head on the ground? That’s (usually) low impact. With most skateboarding, you need a helmet that does both.
You’re going to want a helmet certified by the Consumer Product Safety Commission under CE (EN 1078). If you’re downhilling and looking at a full face helmet, this is the high impact certification, and may be the only one you need. However, if your helmet is to be used for more than downhill, or if you value protection more than weight savings, you’ll also want to look for ASTM certification. F-1952 for fast downhill and 1492 for lighter impacts. Honestly? I recommend just making sure your helmet has both.
Shape and Fit
Make sure you measure your head well and even try a helmet on in person beforehand. I almost grabbed a medium helmet, but fortunately after trying one on in person, I realized the small was actually my size.
You want to make sure the helmet protects the back of your head well. Many impacts happen there. Bike helmets usually only protect the front and top of your head, so don’t just grab a bike helmet because it’s certified for hard impacts. A skate helmet will also protect the vital parts of your brain in the back of your skull. When you try it on, make sure it doesn’t move or slide around. You don’t want it to move prior to impact, leaving your head exposed.
Finally, consider what kind of helmet you want. Do you want a typical half shell, for casual downhill, freeriding, cruising, or tricks, or do you want a full face helmet, for some serious downhilling? Make sure you get the helmet that’s right for you. Most people are fine with a half shell, but if you’re going very fast, you’re going to want to protect your face as well. If you’re racing, you definitely want a full face helmet. This is because impacts may not just be with the road, but other skaters or their longboards. You can also get debris kicked up in your face. It’s far more common than you’d think.
Additional Features
Other features to consider are whether or not it has a brim to help block glare. Does it have enough air holes to cool your head? How adjustable is it? Do you need a visor? Think about all the places and times you’ll be skating. You can always add reflective stickers, but if you don’t want to do that, does it have a reflective coating? Think about what your perfect helmet would look like before buying it. You’re going to wear it every time you skate, and if you’re anything like me, that means you’ll be wearing it nearly every day.
Half Shell Examples
There are many partial coverage helmets to choose from. I personally use a Thousand helmet. I’ve actually gotten a lot of compliments on it. It’s dual certified and carries a guarantee. If it breaks from an impact (AKA: does what it’s supposed to do), they’ll replace it for free. It’s a bit more expensive, but you’re paying for that guarantee and the retro-inspired looks. I also like that it has a special locking mechanism so you can keep it from moving around on your head. This allows you to keep the back low, so it protects the back of your head well and won’t budge. Plus the buckle is magnetic, so it’s easy to put on with one hand while you’re carrying your board in your other.
However, there are other great examples. One of the most popular is the S-One Lifer. This has foam and soft padding for both hard and multiple impacts. It also has more air vents than something like the Thousand (which gets hot in the summer).
If you’re one for celebrity endorsements, Tony Hawk uses the dual certified Triple Eight Sweatsaver. This has a cloth lining to absorb sweat.
And if you really want a visor and maximum airflow, there’s Predator’s half shell option. This isn’t dual certified, but does carry the single impact certification for hard hits so it’s still okay for longboarding use. Personally, if you want that little bit of sun protection, and you’re willing to sacrifice a little heat venting, I’d say go for the Thousand helmet.
Full Face Examples
A good full face helmet with both certifications is the Triple Eight Racer. Predator makes a more expensive helmet that only has one certification, high single impact, but it’s popular with riders for its visibility and features. Then there’s the S1 Lifer full face. It’s a popular helmet brand and comes with both a tinted and clear visor, for skating on sunny or cloudy days. If I were to buy one today, I’d grab the full face one from S-One.
Slide Gloves
These are protections that are also a lot of fun. The rest of this safety gear is just for protection. Boring! Slide gloves don’t just protect you from road rash and light impacts, they also give you stability in slides. Sliding is such a vital part of freeride, fast cruising, and downhill longboarding. I consider these vital if you’re doing anything but commuting or dancing.
For slide gloves, you want a protective material like kevlar or leather. They should have replaceable slide pucks, so you don’t have to buy new gloves when you wear the pucks down. And you will wear those pucks down. You’ll also want to make sure they’re reinforced at the fingertips, as these will drag on the ground a little as you slide. However, do not get gloves that have individual pads on the fingers. Not only will these be hard to replace, they can twist as you slide. If you don’t want to dislocate your finger joints, you’re going to want to avoid those. Some, like those from Loaded, have a full pad at the fingers that turns your slide gloves into slide mittens. I don’t like the lack of dexterity these create, and removing that finger pad means you’re putting velcro on the pavement instead of sturdy leather or kevlar. I definitely recommend just going for gloves that only have a palm puck.
Examples
I’m never going to hate Landyachtz’ goofy videos.
I’m currently using some ones I got from Landyachtz. Honestly, I liked the design (flannel will never be out of style). They’re good, they’ve got leather on the fingertips, the velcro attaching the pucks is nice, and they’re comfortable. They get a bit hot and the black color can come off on your hands when you sweat in them though. Also, they’re not going to do much for your wrist. Finally, the pucks are a little slim, but they don’t go down too fast, and they’re really cheap to replace.
Seismic makes gloves that are considerably more expensive, but they come down further. This can help keep your wrist from moving too much during a fall, a frequent cause of fractures in the wrist. Pucks are separate, but the velco area on the palm is large enough that you could put many third party pucks down there, or get some of Seismic’s, although those aren’t cheap either. Still, if I were to spend a bit more money, this is the option I’d go with.
Right now, Sector9 has a sale on their sliding gloves, and you can get a pair for as little as $15. You’ll want to hurry. When I began writing this, they had all items in stock. As of now, it’s down to two designs, and one is just a weirdly exploitative one of girls in bikinis, and I’m 100% going to make fun of you if you get those.
Alternatively: Wrist Guards
Hey, not sliding? That’s okay too. But if you’re just dancing, commuting, or pushing around the park, you still may want to protect your wrists. I broke mine this summer when I wasn’t wearing gloves or guards (I wasn’t expecting to bomb a hill that day). After I got that cast off, I grabbed some wrist guards to keep my wrist safe while it completed the healing process. I actually bonded with a guy over our mutual hatred of scaphoid fractures when he saw we were both wearing wrist guards.
Guards for the wrist try to minimize movement, but the best ones will also absorb impact. 187 Killer Pads wrist guards are fantastic. My local shop didn’t have them in my size, unfortunately, but I was able to order some from Muirskate. They’re breathable, have inserts to prevent wrist movement, and have an impact absorbing area near the base of your hand/wrist area. They’re not expensive either, I really recommend them.
Knee Pads
If you’re doing a lot of sliding, besides a helmet and slide gloves, these are the first pads that come to mind. When you get tossed from your board while doing a heelslide or when your board gets away from you in a toeslide, the first thing to hit the ground will likely be your knees. Good pads can ensure those are the only things that hit the ground by enabling you to slide on them or roll quickly.
You can buy two main types of kneepads. There’s the kind with replaceable parts, for those who want their pads to last longer than the hard protection on the outside, and the kind that have the hard parts integrated. The latter is cheaper and more low profile. But, if you skate and fall a lot, you may want replaceable pads.
G-Form makes low profile pads that fit easily under leathers. They’re flexible and breathable, and a good option for a lot of skaters. However, they’re more for absorbing impacts. If you’re not wearing these under a layer, and you slide on the asphalt while wearing them, you’re going to tear them up.
You could also go with 187’s integrated and more traditional knee pads. They also have a pro version with replaceable parts. These are better with abrasion, especially the pro version with replaceable knee guards.
Elbow Pads
It might not surprise you that the same companies that make knee pads also make decent elbow pads. You can get low profile and flexible ones from G-Form, or more abrasion resistant ones from 187. Since it’s unlikely you’ll be sliding much on your elbows, but high impacts are a concern, I’d almost recommend G-Form’s over 187’s here. Low profile means you’ll be more willing to wear them, and that’s important.
Hips, Back, and Ankles?
Over the summer, while testing the Bustin Boards Bonsai, I got an injury called a hip pointer. I hadn’t heard of that one before. I landed poorly pooping it off of a curb, couldn’t get my feet off the board in time, and hit the pavement hard. I had trouble walking (ironically: no trouble skating) for a day or two, but it wasn’t too bad. Then I got another a few days later. My body was really not happy with me that time. I was badly bruised and swollen for over a month. Did you know they make compression shorts with built in shock absorption, right at the hip joint? They fit under jeans too! Good to know, right? Especially if you’re a skater in their 30’s or older (ahem). I wish I had grabbed a pair before my second hip pointer, that one really hurt.
When I broke my wrist, the adrenaline from the fall and chasing my board before it went down the next hill left me not even feeling my injury for a while. I thought the only injury I sustained was a bit of a scrape on my ankle. I actually scrape them up quite frequently when I fall. In part due to wearing capris and low top skate shoes with no-show socks. Well, if you’re tired of such an injury, there’s a guard for that too.
And, if you’re setting landspeed records or just racing in some very fast and competitive downhill, you likely don’t need this article to begin with. Still, did you know about back protection? It can keep your spine safe during particularly nasty falls. EVS makes a decent one, as does POC. The key here is to avoid over flexing backwards or hard impacts. Both of these protectors can help with that.
Leathers
This, again, mostly applies to downhill riders. But, after you’ve gotten as much slim protection as you can, it’s time to stuff it under some leathers. Why under? It’s easier to measure yourself, get the pads, and then put a layer of leather on top of it. Besides, pads may not stay in place over top of the gear.
Leathers are a complex and personal thing. You’ll want to get all of your measurements correct. I have done zero competition downhilling, and therefore don’t have leathers. They can cost over a thousand dollars, and I just can’t justify that without turning a profit from downhilling. In the winter or fall I’ll wear a leather jacket and jeans, but that’s about it. Unfortunately, I can’t offer you a review. However, I’ve seen a few people using custom leathers from BTR leathers, a U.K. company. They start at about £395.00, which is currently around $517. Plus shipping and any customization, of course.
Your other option is local sellers on eBay, Craigslist, or Facebook marketplace. You might get lucky. Just be very specific about what type of leather suit you’re looking for. Very specific.
What Do I Skate With?
Typically, just my helmet, which I wear just about every time I set foot on a skateboard. However, when doing some freeriding, I wear slide gloves. Knee and elbow pads are on my to-buy list. I’ve been able to save some nasty falls, but I’ve got a few scars that I wouldn’t have with the right pads. It might feel silly, but nothing ends a skate session like bleeding. I’ve already walked into a pharmacy holding a tissue against my hand to keep from bleeding everywhere, asking where their first aid is. Wouldn’t you rather fall and be able to keep skating?
Truth be told, I’m a little ashamed to admit that I haven’t gotten knee pads and elbow pads yet. Completely the opposite of what you’d expect from skate culture. But really, if you don’t have knee pads and elbow pads, and you still have most of your skin, you’re likely not skating hard enough. Falls are part of the fun. But now I think I’ve left enough of my skin on the pavement, with a few scars refusing to fade. Enough sacrifices to Skatan. It’s just not worth it to skate hard without some protection.
So, gear up, protect yourself, and hit some crazy speeds with the confidence that you won’t lose a lot of skin when you fall!
